Thursday, October 29, 2009

Press Center Building by Ratomir Bogojevic in Belgrade

Picture from Peter at Ostarchitektur

This building is at the most famous shopping street in Belgrade...and chances are that you pass by without realizing what a special building it is. It sticks out more if you approach it from the Republic Square. The building is called "Dom stampe".

The Press Center Building from Trg Republike

The «Dom stampe» building (the Presse Center Building) in Belgrade was erected in 1958-61. This modern business building was executed following the designs made by architect Ratomir Bogojević (1912–1963) one of the most prominent representatives of Serbian modern architecture, in the spirit of Le Corbusier.
At the time it was a novelty in the Belgrade setting. As a part of Trg Republike, this building plays a significant role since it completes a block whose highest point is the «Albanija» Palace (I made a post about it here).


The Press House is “designed and built in almost a classic manner, fits just right with the nearby Reunion Palace and the Foreign Trade Chamber buildings, and makes the ensemble of representative city palaces complete” at the Republic Square.

Trg Republike 5 /corner of Kneza Mihailova

Now the Belgrade Cultural Centre is located in the first floor of the building.

Wednesday, October 28, 2009

"Hello Professor, a Brent Leung is here to see you"
















House of Numbers continues to be the talk of AIDS Denialism. There are many lessons to be learned from the AIDS Denialist crockumentary House of Numbers. The real lesson for scientists is that just because a guy has a camera crew does not mean you should agree to be interviewed by him. Thinking twice before sitting down in front of a camera is a worthwhile lesson indeed. The October 15 issue of Nature, a magazine well known for its excellent book reviews, published a great story on the hazards of scientists appearing in documentaries gone wrong. Too bad the article came out after House of Numbers was in the can. I post the article here for future reference.


And don’t forget to check out the new House of Numbers Website. Everyone should see House of Numbers.But be sure to read up before going.


UPDATE: Editors at Science Daily react to the misrepresentation (lying?) about T-Cells and AIDS twisted in House of Numbskulls.

UPDATE: Joseph Sonnabend, MD - Physician and AIDS Researcher speaks out on the fraud behind House of Numbers.


Caught on camera

What to do when you are interviewed for an unscientific documentary


Stephen Schneider, a climatologist at Stanford University in Palo Alto, California, has always had to deal with angry e-mails from people who think that global warming isn't happening, and that Schneider is part of a conspiracy to promote it. He has been vocal about the dangers of climate change for decades.

In the past week, however, Schneider has been deluged by furious messages. They have been provoked by a clip circulating on the Internet from Not Evil Just Wrong, a documentary film claiming that global-warming fears are 'hysteria'. The clip explains how Schneider did an interview — and then how the university informed the film-makers that it had rescinded permission for using any of the Stanford footage and that Schneider had withdrawn permission to use his name or interview. Schneider says he backed out when he realized that the film-makers were polemicists who had lied to him about their intentions. Some climate-sceptic commentators are accusing him of censorship.

Schneider is by no means the first scientist to feel hoodwinked by film-makers. British evolutionary biologist Richard Dawkins ended up in Expelled: No Intelligence Allowed, a film purporting to show how academics who do not accept evolution are frozen out of academia. Dawkins says that he was conned — that the film-makers had presented the project to him as an even-handed effort entitled Crossroads: The Intersection of Science and Religion. Carl Wunsch, an oceanographer at the Massachusetts Institute of Technology in Cambridge, felt he was "swindled" in a like manner by the producers of The Great Global Warming Swindle. And Nikos Logothetis of the Max Planck Institute for Biological Cybernetics in Tübingen, Germany, let a seemingly objective film crew into his primate laboratory — only to see the footage used in an animal-rights documentary that slams him as cruel.

For many scientists, the natural response to such stories is to stop talking to the media. But that would be an overreaction. For one thing, such misrepresentations are rare. Schneider estimates that he has given some 3,500 interviews since the 1970s, and only twice has he been "set up". Most journalists and documentarians are honestly trying to report the facts, and scientists have a responsibility to tell the public about their work — especially if it is supported by public money.

Fortunately, scientists can do much to protect themselves. When someone asks for an interview, for example, a scientist should enquire about starting assumptions, the intended audience and the identity of the project's backers. And, if possible, researchers should check the earlier work of the journalists and any companies behind the film for a partisan tone, or unacceptable levels of sensationalism.

But if these efforts fail, and it is discovered too late that the film-makers are bent on using an on-tape interview to promote a view that seems unscientific, the question becomes what steps to take. There is rarely a way to withdraw an interview that was given on the record, for good reason. In any case, making a fuss can be a gift of publicity to film-makers. Schneider admits that he might have spared himself the deluge of e-mails had he just ignored the makers of Not Evil Just Wrong.

A better approach might well be to complain to the television channels and broadcasting regulators, many of which have standards for their programming. The Great Global Warming Swindle was censured by Ofcom, Britain's broadcasting regulator, for breaking several rules in its broadcasting code. And when the same documentary was aired by the Australian Broadcasting Corporation, it was followed by a point-by-point debate and rebuttal.

In the end, this is perhaps the most effective way to limit the damage. Bad journalism is best met not with red-faced indignation, but with good journalism. The truth is the best revenge.

Sunday, October 25, 2009

Best travel tips for Serbia - ETHNO VILLAGES

Links for Tour 4: Enjoying rural tourism and Serbian traditions in ethno villages


After general travel tips for Serbia, tips for a citytrip in Belgrade, tips for a bike tour through West Serbia and tips for discovering spiritual and cultural heritage in Raska and Kosovo I'm now sharing tips for a nice way to discover the beautiful traditions of the Serbian culture in Serbian ethno villages (етно село).

Most of the Serbian villages looks so authentic that you can call almost every village an "ethno village". There are some that are a little bit more styled and preserved like Sirogonjo (I wrote about it here) and Trsic (I wrote about it here) for exemple.

a village in south of Serbia

But in any rural area of Serbia you find pictures places where you can spend a couple of days in a healthy area and make some day trips to interesting cultural sites!
How to find a rural house for the holidays:

The ladies at panacomp organize not only accomodations in ethno houses, but also workshops and activities by request (like folk dances etc.)
Here a link to a general owerview about rural tourism

And here the "panacomp" list of housholds that are renting for tourists

old buildings in the village

Another site to find a nice ethno house to rent is this site of Serbian villages "selo"
This site promotes alternative and responsible tourism: "Travelling Balkans"
I like also this link of "Odmor na selu" (Vacation in the village) it's about a village near Valjevo.

Salas in Vojvodina

the yard of a typical Salas

In Vojvodina the northern region of Serbia in the Pannonian plain has many farm estates called "salas" (салаш) a cluster of farmhouse, economic buildings and stables distanced from urban areas. Now you can't almost find quieter places to stay that a solitary salas!
Here a list on "Serbia tourist guide" with Vojvodian salas to rent


A village that I know and that I find very beautiful (and it's near Subotica and Sombor for excursions) is Stara Moravica, a village with Hungarian ethnic majority. Here a site with a salas in Stara Moravica to rent (some links of the site do not work properly at the moment)...

a typical village in Vojvodina


Free guides for Serbia:
You can read big parts of the Bradt Travel Guide for Serbia online here
A little printable guide of Serbia in three languages (serbian/english/german) You can order also your free copy...if you have the patience to wait....(it took many weeks for us)
Also good links for touristic informations about Serbia are the following sites:

The National tourist organization of Serbia has a very nice site, where you can explore culture, regions, food and traditions
Another good site full of information is "Visit Serbia"
In your pocket guide of Serbia (good online presentation)

Thursday, October 22, 2009

Best travel tips for Serbia - RASKA/KOSOVO

old Serbia

Links for Tour 3:
Visiting UNESCO heritage sites and spiritual places in Raska and Kosovo
These two regions are filled with historic facts and tradition. Endangered World Heritage, a long ottoman past and medieval treasures of the Serbian empire..here you have loads of culture!


The Raska Region

Serbia's South/West has currently two names. Serbs call it Raska or Old Serbia, while Muslims who live in the same region and are in majority here call it Sandzak. These two names reflect the two characters of this region in which Orthodox and Muslim populations live alongside one another with their different traditions and customs.
Even before the chaos in Kosovo, this part of Serbian territory was considered a possible future flash point and it's still making headlines.
This area was the heart of medieval Serbia.
There are numerous beautiful examples of sacral buildings in existence from middle age highlighting the importance of this region in the past:


The old church of St. Peter near Novi Pazar
St. Peter's church (Црква светог Петра) is one of the oldest churches on the territory of the Serbian Orthodox Church. I made a post about it.

Sopocani Monastery near Novi Pazar
In the vicinity of Novi Pazar stands the Sopocani monastery (Сопоћани Манастир), built around 1260 as the endowment of King Stefan Uros I (Стефан Урош I), the son of King Stephen the First-Crowned (Стефан Првовенчани). The primary and major value of the Sopocani monastery are its frescoes, by which it ranks among the best examples of the European medieval painting. Here the nice UNESCO site about Sopocani and here my post.

Djurdjevi Stupovi Monastery
The monastery of St. George in Ras belongs to the most important sacred places in the history of Serbian people. As early as the Middle Ages it became known as "Djurdjevi Stupovi", named after its pillars towers which adorned the monastery church. The monastery was founded by the founder of the Nemanjic dynasty, Stefan Nemanja (Стефан Немања), in the second half of the 12th century.
Here is my post about it.

Djurdjevi Stupovi

Studenica Monastery

The Studenica monastery was built in the late 12th century, as the endowment of the Serb ruler Stefan Nemanja (Стефан Немања), who endowed it richly with the icons and books. After he had become a monk and left for Serbian Hilandar on the Mt. Athos, his older son Stefan, later named the "First-Crowned" (Стефан Првовенчани), took his place in taking care over the monastery.(Here my post)

Novi Pazar
Novi Pazar, the former capital of the region and still the most important city here, bursts with oriental sights and smells.
I made posts with beautiful pictures about Novi Pazar here, here and here.

Novi Pazar

Here are links for spiritual/cultural landmarks and Serbia's orthodox treasures

of this region:
An overview about the region from "Serbia in your hands" and from "Visit Serbia" will give you a first impression.

"panacomp"has two interesting tours called: SERBIAN U N E S C O HERITAGE
inclusive KOSOVO AND METOHIJA 1 and SERBIAN U N E S C O HERITAGE inclusive KOSOVO AND METOHIJA 2 for group travels.


Kosovo and Metohija

A lot of medieval monuments in Kosovo and Metohija are in the list of World heritage in Danger. Many monuments have already been destroyed by blasting, incendiary and looting. I will intentionally not give any numbers of how many monuments/churches have been devastated as every source gives another information and also this is used a lot for manipulating information to show which side of criminals is worst.

Kosovska Mitrovica

Visok Decani Monastery
The Decani Monastery was built in the mid-14th century for the Serbian king Stefan Decanski (
Стефан Урош III Дечански) and is also his mausoleum. Here my post.

Gracanica Monastery
The Gracanica Monastery was one of the last monuments by Serbian King Uros II Milutin. It was errected in 1321 on the ruins of an older church.

Saint archangels Monastery
The saint archangel monastery
was founded by Tsar Dusan and built between 1343 and 1352 on the place of the earlier church,and is part of the Visegrad fortress complex abov the city of Prizren. Here my post.

Prizren
The city of Prizren is just awsome. Here my impressions.


And this are just a few highlights to visit. Kosovo and Metohija is filled with exiting landmarks!
And here my favorite links:

The diocese of Ras-Prizren and Kosovo-Metohija
Kosovo – the land of the living past – by the monks of Decani
Kosovo and Metohija by "Serbia in your hands"
A nice pdf to download about spiritual and cultural heritage of Kosovo

Travelling in the Kosovo province on one's own?
With foreign number plates you can travel everywhere in the entire province (stick to the roads...as off road there might still be landmines). With Serbian number plates however it's not recommended to travel in the Albanian parts. The Serbian authorities do not recognize as official the external border crossings of Kosovo. Between the northern Kosovo region and Central Serbia there is just an administrative line but no "official border". It is therefore advised not to enter Serbia through the Kosovo province (at the administrative line in the north) as you will not get an entrance stamp for Serbia and this can give you again problems when leaving the country. If you enter the Kosovo province by the administrative line in the Serbian part and leave it again from the Albanian part to get to Central Serbia you might have trouble at the border for leaving the Kosovo province.

How to visit Serbian orthodox monasteries?
To visit Serbian orthodox monasteries protected by KFOR you must carry personal documents as they will control you.
From what I can tell, the monks in Serbian orthodox monastery are not really strict about behavior of visitors in the monastery, as they assume that if you dress not adequate and behave rather rude, that you’re not doing it on purpose, but that you just don’t have a clue about the rules. However it’s nice to show you arrive prepared and are willing to show your respect for their holy place.
Apropriate clothing: For men it’s long trousers and closed shoes, and no head coverage. For woman it’s a long skirt, long sleeves and a headscarf.
Greeting the monks: Walking toward the monk (or monks) you can nicely say:
"pomaže bog" (literally: That god helps) and he will answer "bog pomogao" (literally: God helps). The monk will then hands you his hand that you will hold in your both hands and bend down your head and tell: "oče blagoslovi" (literally: Father bless me) and he will make a sign to bless you.
Of course you don't need to do all that, a simple greeting is fine. The monastery always will send one monk to show you around the monastery and answer your questions. Often you will be invited for coffee and cakes or exquisite monastery rakija. If you want to show gratitude leave some money or in the designated places or simply by the icons in the chapel.



In the next post there will links for the last tour:
Links for Tour 4: Enjoying rural tourism and Serbian traditions in ethno villages (26.10.2009)

Tuesday, October 20, 2009

Harvard Symposium on Denialism, Mistrust & Stigma
















Death by denial:Symposium explores HIV denial, conspiracy theories

By Alvin Powell Harvard Gazette

People who deny that the HIV virus causes AIDS continue to persist in their beliefs despite overwhelming scientific evidence to the contrary, nurtured by the broad reach of the Internet and cherry-picked scientific claims, AIDS authorities said Monday.

Researchers from Harvard, elsewhere in the United States, and South Africa convened at the Carpenter Center for the Visual Arts to decry HIV “denialism,” saying that the continued questioning of HIV’s role in AIDS harms those infected with the virus by discouraging both testing and treatment.

According to the speakers, denialism takes two major forms. Some skeptics deny that HIV plays a role in AIDS, or that it even exists, while others believe in AIDS conspiracies, acknowledging that HIV causes AIDS but questioning HIV’s origins, saying it results from a government conspiracy, is intended as a genocide campaign against blacks, that it was created in CIA labs, or is of other sinister origin or purpose.

The event, sponsored by the Harvard University Center for AIDS Research, was presented in conjunction with the Carpenter Center’s exhibit “ACT UP New York: Activism, Art, and the AIDS Crisis, 1987-1993.” The exhibit contains posters, T-shirts, fliers, and pamphlets from ACT UP’s AIDS activism campaigns which, through sometimes graphic and jarring messages, pushed government action against AIDS. The campaign argued that the government dragged its feet because of homophobia and racism aimed at two groups prone to the ailment: gay men and intravenous drug users, who are often minorities.
Laura Bogart, associate professor of pediatrics at Harvard Medical School and Children’s Hospital Boston, introduced the event, saying that denialism also includes odd beliefs, such as that drugs for HIV treatment actually cause AIDS. Denialism, she said, is gaining momentum because of the reach that its proponents have on the Internet, and it may have greater traction in communities that already mistrust the government because of past discrimination, revelations of secret medical experiments, and the like.

The symposium examined how denialism affects prevention and treatment, public policy, and human rights.

“Bad ideas have bad consequences,” Bogart said.

Kalichman, professor of psychology at the University of Connecticut, said denialist beliefs are surprisingly widespread. He said most people’s attitude when hearing of HIV denial is, “Oh, those people are still around?” In the uncertain early years of the AIDS epidemic, Kalichman said, denialists were dissidents from the prevailing but still uncertain scientific views. As the body of evidence about the nature of HIV and AIDS grew, dissent turned into denial, wrapped in conspiracy theories. Now, Kalichman lumps HIV denialists with those who deny the Holocaust and global warming, and who believe 9/11 conspiracy theories. All use similar strategies, he said, including false experts, bad science, and selective use of valid scientific results.

Kalichman cited a 2007 report on 696 gay men in five U.S. cities that showed a surprisingly high acceptance of denialist beliefs. Forty-five percent, he said, agreed with the statement “HIV does not cause AIDS,” and 51 percent agreed with the statement “HIV drugs can harm you more than help you,” remarking that it would be troubling if even half those numbers believed such statements.

Kalichman said research shows that the Internet is a critical source of denialist information, and that people who hold denialist beliefs are more likely to have symptoms, less likely to adhere to drug regimens, and less likely to take treatment medication in the first place.

Denialism may have done its most damage in South Africa during the tenure of President Thabo Mbeki. Mbeki, who endorsed denialist beliefs, delayed the beginning of large-scale AIDS drug treatment, which allowed the pandemic to grow unchecked.
Nicoli Nattrass, director of the AIDS and Society Research Unit and economics professor at the University of Cape Town in South Africa, presented preliminary results from a large-scale study of teenagers and young adults there. The results, which are still being analyzed, show that denialist beliefs are held disproportionately by black African men and are far more likely to be held by those supportive of Mbeki’s health minister, who has been replaced by the current administration.

Recent research showed how damaging denialist beliefs can be, concluding that Mbeki’s failure to roll out HIV drugs between 2000 and 2005 resulted in 330,000 unnecessary deaths and the infection of 3,500 infants with HIV

Monday, October 19, 2009

Best travel tips for Serbia - TARA/KOPAONIK

Tara National Park

(Links for Tour 1 - Visiting Belgrade - here)


Links for Tour 2:

You are into natural attractions or you enjoy sport activities

Discover the beautiful region of Tara National Park and Kopaonik region
by bike! Here markowe, a brit with serbian roots suggests a 7 days trek from Kopaonik to Tara.

Kopaonik in winter

Day 1 - Kopaonik

Day 2 - Kopaonik-Raska-Golija

Day 3 - Golija-Sjenica

Day 4 - Sjenica-Gostilje

Day 5 - Gostilje-Zlatibor-Mokra Gora

Sargan eight railway station in Mokra Gora

Day 6 - Mokra Gora-Tara

Day 7 - Tara-HOME!


Panorama over Zlatibor mountains

I wrote also about that region and here are posts about the surroundings of Tara National Park and about Drvengrad the village build by director Emir Kusturica in Mokra Gora.

Mokra Gora

maps of the region:


If you try to look up Serbia in googlemap you will be a little disapointed what concerns Serbia, just a couple of highways and a little more around Belgrade. So I try to give here links to some maps that are more satisfying, if you wish to put an itinerary of West Serbia together. But for travelling you'll need a good road-atlas anyway.

This is one of the better maps of Serbia in internet. And this is one with a good choice of roads and you can print it out.


Typical restaurant in Zlatibor

And here the list of links for the attractions of the region:
The Raca Monastery not far from Baijna Basta (description and panorama movie)


Raca Monastery

Emir Kusturica's Drvengrad "Küstendorf" the official website


Church in Drvengrad

Website of Kopaonik, the major place for skiing ans snowboarding in Serbia Tara National Park (the webiste with wonderful pictures)


Zlatibor Village

In the next posts there will be some more links:
Links for Tour 3: Visiting UNESCO heritage sites and spiritual places in Raska and Kosovo (23.10.2009)
Links for Tour 4: Enjoying rural tourism and Serbian traditions in ethno villages

Friday, October 16, 2009

Best travel tips for Serbia - BELGRADE


After giving some general travel tips I thought about some of my favorite itineraries for Serbia.

The reasons why you're visiting Serbia as a tourist may vary, usually you can resume them into some categories. Here I pass out links for 4 different tours to discover Serbia.



Links for Tour 1.
You head for a city trip in a top destination?
Then visit Belgrade (and if you have a little more time add Novi Sad and Nis to your journey)

The best links to catch all the attractions and to find good information, help for reservation and to find places to eat are the following two sites:
the official website of Belgrade (in english, german and serbian)
and the website of the Tourist Organization Beograd.



And here my personal best 5 of Belgrade.

Here the links to good guides for Belgrade:
Completely free, the inyourpocked guide can be downloaded here and printed out makes a handy little guide to carry.



For a really different kind of tour through Belgrade, I put my NATO-Trail-Guide together, where I lead the visitor to landmarks that NATO bombing in 1999 changed forever...complemented with lots of background informations.

If you wish to buy a guide, then my favorite is a Belgrade walking Guide from Ljubica Corovic. She suggests 10 walking routes through Belgrade which reveal the past and present of the city in a interesting way.



And of course you sure heard it before: Belgrade is the nightlife capital of the east! So here a nightlife guide and the place where to find out what's going on!

Belgrade-Blogs

A good way to stay informed about a city is to follow it throught the eyes of Bloggers. My favorite Belgrade based blogs (in english) about the city are:


The blog of Belgraded is the one I follow the most as it's updated frequently and has a good link called 100-things-to-do-in-Belgrade (good inspiration!)

Other good blogs are Adam's blog The Balkan File (It is run by a British expat in his mid-20s who has made Belgrade his home) and Life in Retro(bel)grade - a blogger lady that invites you to take a step back to to see the big picture of Belgrade.

A newer blog that covers Belgrade and did a good review about Belgrade Hotels (read it before booking...) is merkat traveler - travel to belgrade -blog

And for beautiful pictures from the serbian capital I like to check
belgradedailyphoto-blog


Maps of Belgrade:

Here is
a good interactiv map where you can find single streets and attractions in Belgrade

NOVI SAD
Here the in your pocket guide for Novi Sad.
And here the wikitravelguide for Novi Sad
NIŠ
Here a little basic guide for Niš
And here the wikitravelguide for Niš



In the next posts I'll put together some more links:

Links for Tour 2: Discovering natural attractions in the beautiful region of Tara National Park and Kopaonik by bike! (20.10.2009)
Links for Tour 3: Visiting UNESCO heritage sites and spiritual places in Raska and Kosovo (23.10.2009)
Links for Tour 4: Enjoying rural tourism and Serbian traditions in ethno villages (26.10.2009)

Monday, October 12, 2009

Best travel tips for Serbia


I've been frequently asked to share my advice for travelling to Serbia, and I've already sent out some links, some suggestions and tips. It's time to put all the precious infromation together and to share it with my readers.

When I decided to travel to Serbia for the first time (that's quiet a long time ago...) you could not find ANY advise for travelling there, but just recomendations to NOT go to that area of the world. The war was over, the NATO agression fresh in the bac
k an internet was not yet sharing many links regarding that area.

Today it's easier, tourism is wide spread also in Serbia and even less info
rmed people know that the entire Balkan region is not only of a stunning beauty but also a safe place to explore and makes it also a good place for simply spending a vacation.

Preparations for visiting Serbia

Of course you can just jump into a plane and land in the middle of Belgrade and have a perfect stay without even
knowing where you are. The advise I'm passing on here, are if you're a traveller like me, the one that enjoys the preparations and getting inspired for the journey as much as the travelling itself!

1. read something about serbian history


Ser
bia is a country with an important history and everything you see is loaded with history! So I suggest to read at least this historic summary, that will put the things you see in the right historic contest.


2. learn the serbian cyrillic alphabet


Learn to read cyrillic characters or at least print this cyrillic alphabet out and carry it with you. Most of the signs are written in cyrillic, however in Belgrade and where big communities of hungarians (in northe
rn Vojvodina province) or albanians (in Kosovo and Metohija province) live you find a lot written also in the latinic alphabet.


3. learn about serbian cuisine


The Serbian eating style is something that delights tourists the most: it's absolutely fantastic! In this overview about serbia
n food you find an explanation to all the dishes served in restaurants, a good guide to drinks and eating habits. (For vegetarians, well what to say? if you decide to eat meat once in your lifetime, do it in Serbia...
Since the food is so good you might come back from Serbia and have the wish to cook the nice things yourself. So here my 4 favorite links to serbian recipes:

astal
- Vera's recipes from the Vojvodina region
emo serpica - traditional serbian food
palachinka
- serbian food in stunning nice pictures
moje grne - Dragana's vaste recipe collection


Formal matters for Serbia

French embassy in Belgrade

Here some general information to get the administrative th
ings right when entering and leaving Serbia. It's not complicated, but it's nice to have it here all in one place:

1. Here a list of all Diplomatic and Consular Missions of Serbia (listed by countries)


2. Here is an overview for Visa regimen with the list of countries
Foreigners should register their arrival in Serbia (if you're staying at a Hotel, they will do that automatically for you) with the competent authorities (according to the place of residence of the foreigner - the police department). It's not a bif deal and it doesn't cost much (a couple of cents for the papers).

Here you see why I check border customs, that's what I bring with me....

3. It's never a bad idea to check border customs (here an overview)
As a tourist you shouldn't have any troubles with customs officers. Be just sure to get an "Entrance to Serbia stamp" in your passport, that will avoid troubles when travelling out of the country again.


General advise for Serbia



1. It's forbidden to take pictures of any military facilities.


In Belgrad they sell T-shirts with written: Serbia European Nightmare

2. Don't panic if you read some bad facts about Serbia.

It's still some anti-serbian propaganda going on, and whatever unpleasant happens in Serbia is displayed as a big thing in western european medias (there are however some sites, like at
de-construct, oposing against that). Remember that statistically it's more likely you happen to get harassed in a western european city that somewhere in Serbia. Be respectful and you get respected!

3. Stay out of politic debates and go easy on spreading your opinion about themes like Balkan Wars, ethnic groups and Kosovo.
In the entire balkan region people are still very sensitive about these themes and if you're not part of them you can not 100% understand it. So keep the good advise for your diary and not for the table at the local Kafana. If you are interested in following politics in Serbia (and it's really entertaining) here an overview of the political parties, their leaders and their ideas.


After these more general links, the next few posts will be about 4 itineraries to discover Serbia.

Friday, October 9, 2009

Can Peter Duesberg be Trusted on Cancer?

This week's News Week Magazine raises questions regarding Peter Duesberg's credibility as a cancer researcher. Duesberg is best known for his AIDS Denialism. What many may not know is that Peter Duesberg maintains a small laboratory privately funded by Robert Leppo where he researches potential causes of cancer.

Peter Duesberg was among the first scientists to isolate cancer-causing genes and cancer-related retroviruses. Early in his career, Duesberg worked with other Berkeley scientists, including acclaimed molecular biologist G. Steve Martin, to discover the first cancer-causing genes—oncogenes. The Berkeley Group was among the first to demonstrate that retroviruses carry oncogenes that transform normal cells into deadly cancer cells.


Understanding the genetics of cancer brought about new and sophisticated technologies that have become critical in cancer prevention and treatment. Peter Duesberg’s work in cancer also led to his election to the National Academy of Sciences in 1986. The citation for his membership to the Academy reads:

The first true oncogene, src, was identified and mapped by Duesberg. He also chemically mapped the entire viral genome and then duplicated these feats for three major mouse sarcoma viruses and some half-dozen avian sarcoma and leukemia viruses.

Having done important work on the genetics of cancer, Peter Duesberg made what appears to be a radical shift in his thinking in the early 1980s. To put it simply, he changed his mind about the cause of cancer. During this time, he published papers in the distinguished journals Nature and Science in which he completely dismissed the role of retroviruses and oncogenes in causing cancer.

He refuted his own contributions and criticized other cancer researchers who had embraced oncogenes as a cause of cancer, including prominent and influential researchers such as J. Michael Bishop and Harold Varmus, whose work on oncogenes— just across the bay, at the University of California San Francisco—led to a Nobel Prize in 1989.

Duesberg shifted his view of cancer toward a theory proposed by the German scientist Theodor Boveri (1862–1915), who in 1914 proposed that chromosomal mutations, not gene mutations, collectively called Aneuploidy are the cause of cancer. Aneuploidy is the name given to cells that develop an abnormal number of chromosomes.

Aneuploidy can result from exposure to environmental toxins including radiation, chemicals, and other carcinogens. Duesberg takes the extreme position that Aneuploidy is not the effect of cancer, but rather the opposite; that Aneuploidy resulting from life style is the sole cause of all cancers.

Duesberg simply extended his new view that viruses do not cause cancer to also explain AIDS.
The question is, can we trust Peter Duesberg’s cancer research? Duesberg blatantly ignores science to propagate his belief that HIV does not cause AIDS. He cherry picks research results for the sake of argument. Duesberg uses every trick in the denialst playbook to distort reality regarding HIV causing AIDS. Can Peter Duesberg be at once an AIDS denialist and a trusted cancer scientist? Should we forget about the harm he has caused to people affected by AIDS, including his role in promoting AIDS denialism in South Africa?

New Insights from an Old Student

In contemplating Peter Duesberg’s credibility on cancer, insight can be gained from a former student’s reflections on his time with Duesberg. Respected neuroscientist Samuel Pfaff recently shared his experiences as Duesberg’s student at Berkeley in the article “Making the Most of Opportunities and Challenges” by science writer Robin Mejia.

When neuroscientist Samuel Pfaff was a postdoc at Vanderbilt University in Nashville, he and his future wife often visited her family in Pasadena, California. On one of those visits, the couple decided to take a side trip to San Diego. As they drove down Torrey Pines Road, he saw the Salk Institute for Biological Studies perched on a bluff overlooking the Pacific Ocean.

"I still have a really vivid memory," Pfaff says. "I remember thinking, "Anyone who runs a lab there has to be one of the luckiest people in the world. They must have the perfect career.' "
Today, many would say almost the exact same thing about Pfaff. The scientist doesn't just have a lab at the Salk Institute: He sits in Jonas Salk's former office--or part of it at least; the office has been subdivided--next to Salk's favorite window, which features a removable glass pane that Pfaff takes out some days to let in the sea breeze.

Pfaff's life may look charmed from the outside, but his path to the Salk Institute presented a mix of opportunities and challenges, occurring, often as not, when they were least expected. The first time he saw the building that has since become his scientific home, he was recovering from a difficult graduate experience at the University of California (UC), Berkeley: It was the late 1980s, and his graduate adviser, the renowned virologist Peter Duesberg, had become an outspoken skeptic of the then-new proposition that HIV causes AIDS. Pfaff recalls that he and Duesberg were barely on speaking terms by the time Pfaff finished his Ph.D. Pfaff was uncertain whether he would be able to find the kind of independent research position he sought.

Early promise, early challenges

Raised in Rochester, Minnesota, Pfaff discovered his affinity for science early. When he was in high school, a teacher suggested he talk to a neuroscientist at the Mayo Clinic, which led to Pfaff's first position in a biology lab. "I started as a volunteer. I'd go straight from school," he says. "For somebody my age, it was just an incredible opportunity to be involved in making discoveries."

From Rochester, Pfaff went to Carleton College in Northfield, 40 miles from home. Although research options were limited at Carleton, he confirmed his love of science there and discovered developmental biology. He was thrilled when, in 1983, UC Berkeley accepted him as a graduate student. And after a series of rotations, he settled into Duesberg's lab, where he hoped to learn microbiology.

"He was truly a hotshot at that particular stage of his career," Pfaff recalls. "He was well-funded, maybe one of the best-funded labs [at Berkeley]. His students were publishing lots of papers, going to great postdocs." When he first arrived there, Pfaff found Duesberg inspirational, devoted to science, and always at the bench. Pfaff was working in Duesberg's lab when he was elected to the National Academy of Sciences in 1986.

Then, Pfaff says, things started to change. Duesberg became more and more critical of other scientists and, particularly, of research being done on HIV and AIDS. In 1987, Duesberg published a paper arguing that HIV is harmless. He maintains that position today; it's one that's made him a scientific pariah.

Being Duesberg's student at the time the senior scientist was staking that position was a challenge. "He was losing the respect of other scientists. I wondered what that would mean for me," Pfaff recalls. "[At scientific meetings], I remember the feeling of embarrassment telling people this is the lab I work in and fearing they wouldn't come to my poster, thinking I'd talk about HIV and AIDS, when my research had nothing to do with it."

He says lab meetings became difficult to stomach and that, being both young and stubborn, he probably didn't handle his disagreements with Duesberg very gracefully. "There was, I'm sure, a lot of body language on my part that he didn't appreciate. ... I just sort of stopped talking to him. Even though we might be standing right next to each other [at the bench], we'd be trying not to acknowledge each other. Looking back, I'm not proud of my behavior," he says. "I just wanted to do enough research to finish my dissertation and get out of there."

"I think he was the least happy of my graduate students," Duesberg says. Duesberg does not recall that the two stopped speaking but concurs that it was not a successful match.

Finding his way

Given that he was trying not to speak to his adviser, Pfaff moved forward on his own. Eventually, he managed to finish his Ph.D. research and publish two papers on different oncogenes, but he was not particularly proud of the work. (He says his committee members commented that the dissertation seemed average, and he didn't disagree.) The experience left him drained. He wasn't ready to give up on a career in science, but he felt certain he wasn't qualified to apply for postdocs at major research institutions.

"I didn't feel I would even be considered by some of the better laboratories in the country. Maybe I had low self-esteem. I wasn't getting any career advice," he says. At that point, he and his girlfriend (now his wife) had been maintaining a long-distance relationship for 3 years while she pursued a Ph.D. at Vanderbilt University. Unsure what to do next, Pfaff decided to see if he could find a position in a lab at the school. William Taylor, a scientist there, was starting to do molecular biology in frog embryos, a system that had fascinated Pfaff as an undergrad.

Taylor recalls that he asked about Pfaff's graduate experience, but he was more interested in the young scientist's abilities than his mentor's views. "I asked and he implied that those were Peter's ideas, not his," says Taylor, now director of the Molecular Resource Center at the University of Tennessee Health Science Center in Memphis. He offered Pfaff a postdoc position. "Sam was by far the brightest person in the lab," Taylor says. "It was like having another PI [principal investigator] in the lab; it was amazing."

For Pfaff, the time in Taylor's lab was a chance to work with a mentor who took an interest in his research and his career. "It gave me a chance to reestablish myself in science," he explains. By the time his wife finished her Ph.D., Pfaff's project was wrapping up, but he still felt unable to compete for the kind of position he dreamed of. "I thought I could probably be considered for positions where my primary position would be teaching and I could maybe dabble in science," he recalls.

At about that time, a mutual friend introduced Pfaff to Thomas Jessell, a neuroscientist at Columbia University. Jessell says he felt Pfaff had picked up useful virology skills in Duesberg's lab regardless of Duesberg's position on AIDS. Pfaff's work in Taylor's lab showed that the young scientist "could work on problems in a rigorous way," says Jessell, now Claire Tow Professor of neuroscience, biochemistry and molecular biophysics and co-director of Columbia's Kavli Institute for Brain Science. "I think I just got the idea that Sam was very competent." It didn't hurt that Pfaff brought microbiology skills that Jessell needed at the time. He offered Pfaff a postdoc.

"When I went to Jessell's lab, I knew it was just an incredible opportunity, and I also knew it was my last chance if I was going to stay in research science," Pfaff recalls. Pfaff again switched systems, helping Jessell's lab start doing mouse genetics. His work on how the selective expression of LIM homeobox genes regulates the development of neurons in the embryonic spinal cord helped set the stage for future research in Jessell's lab and, later, Pfaff's own. "It was our first real foray into gene targeting," Jessell says. "I think it made it clear that [the problem] was approachable."

Independence

As that project came to an end, Pfaff finally felt ready to apply for the kind of research positions he'd been thinking about since high school. He received offers from "about a half-dozen institutions," he says.

The Salk Institute didn't offer the biggest financial package, but it did offer the La Jolla bluffs. Even more important, it offered a collegial environment and colleagues Pfaff could envision as future collaborators. He accepted the offer, and in 2005 he cleared the last hurdle, becoming full professor there. In 2008, he was named a Howard Hughes Medical Institute Investigator. He continues to study the fetal development of the spinal cord.

Pfaff says he hasn't spoken with Duesberg since he left Berkeley, and Duesberg says he hasn't had any new graduate students in his lab since he began arguing against the link between HIV and AIDS. Pfaff says his experience in the lab at Berkeley has shaped how he runs his own lab today: He considers mentoring a key component of his job.

"I tell students, 'There will be some point in your career where things will not be optimal.
You'll have to deal with some aspect of disappointment,' " he says, noting that it's easy to do good work when everything's going well. "You're defined by what you do when you encounter challenges."